Sunday, March 8, 2015

A.10 Roof Plan


Trees Room roof avoids the static barn feeling with the angled walls and sloping ceiling. Skylights might be a problem for media room--we'll see what we see in Sketchup. Note the sun tunnel at the laundry room and a 4x4 skylight at the land-locked bathroom.

I have a bid coming for an 11' x 14' hip skylight, but I'd be surprised if it was less than $5,000 (the cost of an aluminum and glass garage door). Four 2x4 Velux skylights cost about $1,200 so...yeah.

Update: Bid received 3/9/15 for $20,846.

The low-angle shed might not work, but I'd like to see it in Sketchup. I'm mindful that shed roofs can be off-putting . Also, this plan puts a structural point load right over the dining table. It's no problem to catch the load with a moderate-sized beam, but I'm concerned that a visitor will notice this on an unconscious level and it will make the house feel unbalanced or uncomfortable.

Saturday, March 7, 2015

The Plan Evolves

Update: Peggy's Notes


Response re: kitchen door: A door to the outside means a full panel of glass for light and airiness. It means fresh basil and cilantro are just steps away. It means mega-ventilation if something starts smoking, and it could mean easy composting.

Update: 3/8/15: Plan A.10.1 steals some of the porch and moves the dining table to the middle of the space to create a proper kitchen.
Update: A.10.1 with changes to the entry and kitchen

The latest plan gives us 4 bedrooms, 2.75 baths in about 500 square feet of additional space. The spiral stair to the wine cellar returns, adding that 260 square feet to the total 2,136. The kitchen, bathrooms, and closets are modest, but the Trees Room is more dramatic than before, the spiral stair should be unique and memorable, and we have a MIL and Airbnb with dedicated access.

Moving the steps down to the Trees Room away from the wall allows us to put stairs up to a future Master Suite along that wall. Maybe we include the stairs in this phase with a door to a roof deck.

The plan includes a generous front porch. As with earlier schemes, the idea is plant the notion of spaciousness in buyer's minds as they enter the house for the first time. Also, just to see how it feels, the laundry is open to the hall--the laundry sink counts as a 1/4 bath, by the way. For the same reason, the sink is outside BR3's en suite.

Friday, March 6, 2015

The Unused Front Door vs. the Intimacy Gradient

It's dumb to include a front door in the traditional place in a house if everyone is going to use the informal way in. The kitchen door, the sliding glass door on the family room...if they are next to where visitors walk up or park their cars, no one is going to hike around to the quiet part of the house to knock on the "real" front door.

The problem is that this "real world" thinking leads to the feeling that the visitor's entry into the house wasn't designed. It works, and most people wouldn't question it, but it doesn't contribute to anyone's confidence in the design of the home.

One solution is to move the formal entry to the more natural place. This is similar to "desire paths" in a park: pave sidewalks where feet have worn down the grass.

Problem: Unless the spaces in a building are arranged in a sequence which corresponds to their degrees of privateness, the visits made by strangers, friends, guests, clients, family, will always be a little awkward.

That's the benefit of the traditional front door, opening into a dedicated entry space. It is the place where the UPS delivery person knocks and leaves a note; the place where first-time guests are officially greeted and their bottle of wine accepted. Family and good friends might let themselves in, but they don't step into the middle of the home, they proceed toward the middle from the periphery.

Solution: Lay out the spaces of a building so that they create a sequence which begins with the entrance and the most public parts of the building, then leads into the slightly more private areas, and finally to the most private domains.

In Trees House, the owner enters from the garage into the open plan kitchen/dining/family area, and we are considering whether to attach an entry to the open plan (e.g., plan A.7) or to create a hall that starts at the entry and takes a visitor past the living room toward the open space (e.g., plan A.9).

The A.7 approach is more space-efficient. The A.9 plan reveals the home more slowly. 

Traditional homes (center hall Colonials, for example) provide a path for visitors to be conducted through a house without disturbing the cocktail party or the bridge game. Father entertains his boss in the living room, Mother greets Aunt at the door and they head to the kitchen. But this traditional thinking leads to the living room as an unused artifact behind an invisible velvet rope.
When shown into one of those polar parlors...the heart cries, "Take me where the people stay; I didn't come to see the chairs."--William C. Gannett
One appeal of "open plan" living is that the dining table can be used for many things, not just the occasional formal dinner. A.7 puts the dining table in the middle of things; A.9 creates a polar parlor. 

A.7 does not connect the entry with the middle of the house so much as it makes the middle of the house less intimate, which may be correct. The open plan area--party central, kitchen, dining table, window wall--becomes the public space only one step more intimate than the entry space. The bedrooms and suites are the more intimate areas, not the open plan rooms.
Plan B.7 (2/3/15) is A.7 without the stairs to the master suite over the garage

By keeping the low pitched hip roof on both sides it ties the building together. the 2-story core adds excitement to the design and celebrates the site. The coat/shoe storage at the entry provides privacy while letting the space remain open. The east clerestories let light play across the room on the morning and brightens up the interior. 

Wednesday, March 4, 2015

Ask the Expert

I asked Realtor Geoff Hill to drop by so that I could ask my questions about what improvements return the best value. I'm grateful that he gave me over an hour of his time.

Kitchens, baths, and adding square feet are the best investments, he said, as long as the improvements have "universal appeal." He remembered a house with a very nice, high-end urinal installed in a bathroom. Not going to see that money come back. After all my questions, Geoff cautioned that you can't put something like this together with only money in mind. It has to be a labor of love, and that may mean less profit.

He talked about "continuity of design choices," another way of saying that quality design has value. He strongly encourages sellers to move out and pay a few thousand to have the home professionally staged.

We discussed the target market. Sure, my empty-nesters (like Tanya and Kevin or Sharon and Norm) are obvious, but Geoff said there are plenty of childless couples, some in their 20s, with this kind of money to spend. And couples with new children who expect to move again by the time the kids are in school. Or who aren't considering public schools anyway. (He mentioned a private academy up on 145th--perhaps he meant Lakeside School? )

He imagined a scenario of a couple looking to downsize. They've got a super-size home in a development, and they're looking for something more "genuine," a house that costs less to heat and to operate. They would find a "continuity of design choices" plus high energy efficiency appealing.

It seems that two suites would be a plus. A "true MIL" in this neighborhood would be rare, which would mean low inventory, which is good for a seller. But its vital that it be a "flex" room. A small kitchen is great, for example, for a man cave, but if it starts looking too man cave-y, or too much like Gramma's room, to the point that it can't be a rec room for the whole family, then it gets into odd. That is, it fights "continuity of design choices." He looked at Peggy's A.7 and liked it.

I asked whether more, smaller rooms were better than fewer rooms and a feeling of spaciousness. He said, in general, spaciousness is good, but "don't lose a bedroom" to get it. He described a home with 3 small bedrooms remodeled into a home with 2 bedrooms and a real master suite. Not clear that that's a win--it works for buyers looking for a real master, but it turns off families with two kids--the middle of the bell curve.

When you think of 2-bedroom homes, you're competing with condos and townhomes. There are few 3-bedroom condos, so that's the norm in houses. If people are looking for 3-bedrooms, they put that on their search and the 2-bedroom homes don't show up. So, having only 3 bedrooms limits your market a little. Four would expand the market a little.

I asked him if the new front door should open into the Trees Room, or whether it should be near the living room and let the Trees Room come later in the experience, and he was torn. He does think that a truly discrete entry is a plus--there's a place for it on MLS form--and that entry doors that open directly into the living room are not as good. He thinks the existing entry by the garage is not working, because you have no idea where you are when you come in that way.

Likewise, ADA accessibility is on the form, so if you can check that box, you'll pop up on every search that's looking for it. Don't make it obvious, or emphasize it, though--it's a turn-off for the able-bodied.

Hydronic heating is goodness. Buyers up here are tech-savvy and tend to be looking at operating costs when they consider a house. Radiant heat is simply more efficient. It obviously ups the apparent value for Geoff.

On the other hand, he has "mixed feelings" for metal roofs. Obviously, you go from a 40-year roof to a 100-year or lifetime roof, and that's good. But "If metal roofs were worth the extra cost, you'd see a lot more of them."

We talked about kitchens. He thinks the gold standard is Viking, and that there is some value in buying range, refrigerator and dishwasher of the same brand. I mentioned Wolf-like NXR, and he wasn't familiar with it, but thought it would be fine. What about ultra high-end, like Bertazzoni? There are some really picky chefs out there, he said, and you're probably not going to please them anyway. The difference between looks built-in, sort of, and truly built-in in refrigerators is just not worth the money.

A single-bowl stainless steel sink is goodness, certainly no problem with it. Quartz counters, like Caesarstone, seem to be the trend, granite's day was a few years ago. That is, no strong opinion, but a sense that fashion dictates what's in. Actually, thinking about it, the current trend is more eclectic. He said John Lasswell installed a new concrete product in his own home that he was very happy with, and Geoff has seen concrete counters more and more. More "unique" counter materials.

Cabinets are the big expense. The existing painted wood cabinets are fine, but stained wood is more sought-after, in Geoff's opinion, other things being equal. But, he really likes the slick high-gloss cabinet doors he's seen, too. Wood isn't strictly required, and he could imagine scenarios where the wrong wood fights the rest of the design.

I was a little surprised to hear that refinished hardwood floors--being able to advertise "original hardwood"--is a plus. Nothing wrong with all new, too, but there's a value to "original."

Female buyers fantasize about long bubble-baths that busy people never have time for in actuality. Most people of both sexes take showers. Number of baths seems to be less important than number of bedrooms, because people don't search for a minimum number of baths. One trick, if you want to increase your bath number, is that a utility sink counts as a 1/4 bath. So does an outdoor shower head. Fixture count in a bathroom is another metric. A master bath with two lav sinks ("Jack and Jill sinks"), a toilet, and two shower heads is a five-fixture bath even with no tub. Two shower heads appeals to people who don't want anyone else (i.e., their spouse) messing with their shower head.

Should I finish the garage? Yes, without question. Drywall and paint are cheap, and a finished garage makes a good impression.

Should I remove the popcorn ceiling? Oh my god yes. Just get rid of it. We talked about potential asbestos, and how having it done professionally is expensive (starting with testing it), but that homeowners are allowed to do it themselves. I think it's a recent thing and is unlikely to have asbestos, but I didn't say it out loud because Geoff would just have shrugged.

Should we finish the basement? Yes, that's also a no-brainer. Even with the minimal ceiling height and outdoor access. People love to see a place for their seasonal storage, and it's a lot easier to imagine if its finished. Besides, drywall and paint are cheap. We checked my home sales spreadsheet--the average $/SF is $330. Finish the 300 SF basement and you've added $99,000, conceptually. It would be better if there was inside access, of course, but yeah, finish it.

Last bit of advice: Consider going for some kind of energy certification. What about environmental certification? Geoff explained that energy is a two-fer: I'm proud that I'm helping the planet, and I'm also looking forward to the monthly savings. An environmental certification (e.g., use of sustainable materials) just doesn't have the same impact.

Saving the best for last. I asked Geoff, casually, whether a flat membrane roof on the Trees Room would be seen as a oddity--why wasn't the roof consistent--and he said it might be cool to have a pyramid roof on the pop-up section that matched the rest of the roof but was made of glass. Look up at the trees, look up at the stars, let the sunlight flood in. That would be so cool! I immediately sent email to SuperSky and Acurlite.



Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Today's Updates

A couple of threads need to be updated. First, the angst over the value add vs. construction investment.

What's the Number We Have to Hit?
It's really simple, and it looks like this: There is overhead to selling the future house (6% realtor commissions, 1.78% excise tax). There is a minimum profit needed on the construction funds: 7% per year, or I should put the construction funds into a better investment. (One could argue that the money spent buying the house should earn its keep, as well, but I have to live somewhere.)

This sets up a simple table:

Construction Investment| Min. Sale Price
$50,000$568,487
$100,000$630,563
$150,000$692,640
$200,000$754,716

Clearly, I would like to do much better than 7%, so I hope these sales numbers are low. Break it down: Sell for $568,487, pay $34,109 in commissions, $10,119 in excise tax. Net: $524,259, or $7,259 profit over the ($467,000 + $50,000) I put in. Sell for $692,640, net $638,753, or $21,753 profit on $150,000 in construction investment.

The neighborhood might appreciate 8% per year (or it might not appreciate at all), so the sale price in Spring 2017 should be some 16% higher naturally. If we could spend $50,000 today and sell tomorrow for $568,487--I said "if"--then we might sell for $663,083 in 2017, adjusted for appreciation. That would be an additional $87,236 profit, turning our 7% into a 37.47% profit. If we could assume appreciation, we could contemplate selling for less to still make our 7%, but that would be very risky.

Forced Air vs. Hydronic
I chatted with Johnathan Jones again tonight and, as usual, left with more to think about. I have been using the ballpark $20,000 number that Northwest Mechanical gave me, and the $9,000 I have heard from various sources (including Master Works Construction) for a new gas furnace and ducting upgrade. So, I conclude that Hydronic is about an $11,000 upgrade on a basic heating system.

Johnathan pointed out that heating the big volume in a Trees Room with forced air is a bigger deal. It's really $9,000 plus the cost of forcing air into an almost 6,000 CF space (for comparison, the Master Bedroom is 1,500 CF). Heated air rises, so you have to overdo forced air to keep the temperature 3' off the ground warm.

But underfloor hydronic works perfectly in this situation. The radiant heat from the floor warms at people level with much greater efficiency. Net net: Hydronic is only a $6000 or $7000 extravagance.

I'm sold that heating the floor rather than blowing dust and allergens around makes perfect sense, but I wonder how the market takes it. 214 NW 140th St is a spec house with hydronic heating. At a recent open house, they felt the need to hand out one-page flyers explaining hydronic heating. I didn't yet know myself, and it sounded to me like they were justifying a cost-cutting move. Let me tell you about plastic kitchen sinks--the sink of the future.

I love this comp (214 NW 140th St): "New construction in Broadview! Contemporary architecture in a classic style. Three bedrooms, 2.25 baths. Two-car garage with spacious driveway for additional off-street parking. Huge yard on this 8,235 square foot corner lot. Tankless hot water heater. Hydronic heating system. Beautiful kitchen adjoining dining area and large living room with see-through gas fireplace." Our lot is 2,430 SF larger. They have 3/2.25, we have 3/2.5. They have 2,419 SF, but they're on a corner lot with busy 3rd Ave NW right there and they have no backyard at all. They are asking $799,000 and it's not moving, but that's a nice ballpark. And it's $330.30/SF.

City26, the Isola development at Meridian N and 140th St, brags about its "cutting-edge HVAC system. The combination of a heat recovery ventilator and ductless Mitsubishi heat pump creates an ideal environment of fresh air + efficient heating and cooling." One of the first contemporary mini subdivisions I saw, 1550 NW 60th St, says "Hot Water Recirc Pump, Radiant, Wall" instead of the typical "Forced Air" for Heating/Cooling.

The high-end Canopy at Maple Leaf development features "In Floor Radiant Heat & Mini Split AC." Sage Homes Northwest features "Mitsubishi FE12 Mini Split Ductless Heat Pump with Cooling."

Monday, March 2, 2015

The Whole Package

More thoughtfulness about the whole project. The goal is to put in as little money as possible and get as big a return as possible. We've discussed $0 in--Broadview is supposed to appreciate 8%/year, Zillow already values the place higher. But two years later, the roof will be even closer to end of life.

So, imagine that we put on a new roof and repaint the outside. We pop out the garage and install a brand new garage door. We install a gas range, new refrigerator and dishwasher, along with new cabinets and a quartz countertop. We improve 3 bathrooms and replace a couple of windows. We re-paint most of the rooms. Call that Basic.

1948 House 4BR, 3.5 BA, 4450 SF at 12024 7th Ave NW
The question is: Is Basic enough of a package? Will elements like the oil furnace, or the odd enclosed breezeway, or blue wood deck, or the lack of a media area spoil the overall package? Here's a freshly painted, new roofed house with a snazzy kitchen upgrade. 3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, 1596 SF. My gut says that might sell for as much as $640,000 ($401/SF).

What would a high-tech hydronic heating system, or a dramatic Trees Room add to the sale price? How about a metal roof? I'd like a drywalled garage with an epoxy painted floor--does that add value? What about popping ceilings up for clerestory windows? Our old friends Wolf and Sub-zero?

I'm sure that more square feet would help the price. 400 SF would make $640,000 a steal at $305/SF. But to really add value, that 400-600 SF should include another bedroom and full bath. That's the way to break $700,000. 4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, 2,196 SF with the paint and the kitchen and new roof--could be $730,000 ($332/SF). Hopefully the new bath would be as eye-popping as the kitchen--fancy shower, soaking tub, twin lavs, quartz counters, glass shower door, heated floor, walk-in closet.

Basic costs about $52,000, done cheaply. If Basic could sell for $640 (I don't think it can), we'd net $71,208 profit, or 137% of the construction investment.

French kitchen in 12-year-old comparable at 206 NW 143rd.
So, add a 600 SF high-end Master Suite. Trouble is, that could be $100,000 by itself--$166/SF makes sense for the second floor structure and high-end finishes. But we can swing $152,000.

So here's the pitch: 4 BR, 3.5 BA, 2196 SF. New roof, new kitchen, new baths. Still got an oil furnace, no dramatic Trees Room, no metal roof, no Wolf and Sub-zero. We might get $750,000 if the kitchen and master bath really pop. The net is almost exactly the same as Basic--$72,650--but now it represents only 47.8% of the construction investment.

Here's a comparable: 206 NW 143rd St 4/3.5, 3622 SF, sold for $825,000 last October. It's got 1,426 SF more than us on a 6500 SF lot (ours is 10,665 SF). Thing is, this house is 12 years old. 12024 7th Ave NW is 4/3.5, about as old as we are, but it is 4,450 SF on a lot our size. It sold in December for $835,000, but it does have a peekaboo view of the sound. (The Zestimate for it is over a million.) If $/SF matters to buyers, we would be asking $341.50/SF at $750,000, not the $188-$227 these comps got. At $227, we could only ask $498,000.

The blurb for the 12 year old house is: "Remodeled in 2011. Absolutely top-of-the-line kitchen French kitchen featuring white oak hardwood floors, a Lacanche Sully gas range, limestone hood, marble tile backsplash mosaic by Francois & Co., stunning granite countertops, enormous granite topped island, custom cabinetry by Hewitt Cabinets, Thermador Freedom refrigerator and freezer columns (paneled to match cabinetry), Miele La Perla dishwasher (paneled to match island cabinets), under counter JennAir microwave, custom powder room featuring a natural river rock wall."

13250 6th Ave NW is a few years older than us, with 4/2.5 and 2790 SF. I considered this house--it's on a nice dead end street with more expensive homes nearby. It sold for $588,000. If I put in $152,000 and have to sell for $588,000, I lose $76,746 on the investment.

The answer is that we can't do everything, and yet we must do some things that are not of obvious utility. We have meat and potatoes and basic eye appeal, but there should also be some sugar and some vitamins. Some surprises, like the power room with the river rock wall, and some good-for-you things like replacing the decades-old heating vents. It's the whole package that seals the deal. I'm sorry that I can't just dictate what the elements must be, but the economics forcing me to be more careful...and more clever.



T.h.e. Floor Guy

Just met a real pro flooring guy, Jeff Lane, owner of Lane Hardwood Floors. He's got a showroom at 14700 Aurora Ave. I previously met with Craig Munson, owner of Seattle Floor Service, on Feb. 20. I liked Mr. Lane more.

He identified 2.25" x .75" No. 1. Red Oak in the living room, dining room, and bedrooms. The hall outside the MBr was probably added later, he said, and they used Select Red Oak. The oak has a natural, un-stained finish, which initially brings out the red, but the red goes away and it looks more yellow later in life. Sanding it down and refinishing it will bring out the red again, but they can tease out just about any color we want, or they can stain it.

Mr. Lane is confident he can feather in new to repair or blend whole new rooms. I asked him to bid just fixing what's here, since I'm uncertain about the new floor plan. He mentioned that they usually do the floors after the walls have been painted, so the context is there for deciding on floor color.

Image from Lane Hardwood Floor web site
Both Lane and Munson pointed out the visible nail heads at the north living room window wall. They both thought it was a repair, perhaps from water damage. Mr. Lane pointed out a poor feathering job, with three joins very close together. Where Munson said replace the living room floor, Lane said it's got one more sanding left in it.

Munson's bid doesn't break it down, but he has new Select Red Oak in living, dining and part of hall (not including removing the old) and refinishing the bedrooms and the rest of the hall for $6483.30 (plus tax). Lane said he'd send his bid by 3/3.

I asked Lane about prefinished hardwood (as seen 3/1 at Lumber Liquidators). He explained that each board has an eased edge--a "micro-groove"--that makes it look obviously different than a sanded-in-place floor. At first, it was odd, but now it's accepted since so many high-end spec houses use it. But it's a different kind of look. I asked whether it was harder to clean and he explained that giving the dust and dirt a tiny place to hide means that the particles aren't ground into the surface, making the floor last longer and look cleaner. So, he's become a reluctant fan of the prefinished. Solid hardwood is usually 3/4", prefinished is usually 5/8" or less.

Lane explained, by the way, that you've got about 1/4" above the tongue or groove on a board. The nail is hidden by the top of the groove. So when you see the nail, that means you've sanded off most of the top 1/4". To repair the living room by the front door, he would first carefully "set" each nail below the surface.

I asked him about click-lock, floating flooring, since I had some sample from Home Depot. Junk, he said, using other words. Nothing wrong with floating floor, but click-lock is too thin, uses crummy materials, and has no wear layer. No good.

Finally, I asked about under-floor hydronic. Turns out, he thinks hydronic is great, but you just can't use it with solid hardwood, because it causes expansion and cracks. With hydronic, use engineered hardwood, which is dimensionally stable by design.

We also talked about baseboards. The existing baseboards have what is called a "base shoe"--it's 1/2" high and 3/4" wide. (I mistakenly called it a quarter-round.) It's there to hide imperfections in the board ends. It's optional--they can even fix old floors by feathering in pieces where needed.

At least one site recommends a floating engineered wood floor over radiant heat. Perhaps something like Bellawood prefinished engineered bamboo (currently $3.49/SF at Lumber Liquidators).
BELLAWOOD Bamboo  9/16" x 5-1/8" Golden Ultra-Strand
Jeff Lane
Lane Hardwood Floors
14700 Aurora Ave. N
Shoreline, WA 98133
(206) 622-9669
jeff@lanehardwoodfloors.com

Steps Project

I want to remodel the whole front yard. New hardscape, and so on. But at the moment, my path from the driveway to the house is only barely w...