Wall and Roof Details

 We need to develop standard wall sections and roof details. 

Wall Construction

Studs are 3½" 2x4 or 5½" 2x6. Typically filled with kraft-faced fiberglass batt insulation (R-13 for 2x4, R-19 for 2x6). A 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier goes on the inside, covered by gypsum board (½" thick unless between garage and residence, when 5/8" Type-X gyp board is required).

Sheathing on the outside of the studs can be OSB, but plywood is preferable. 7/16" OSB is minimum if wood sheathing is provided. Often, plywood is used so that the sheathing is in plane with the shear walls. CDX plywood sheathing is 15, 19, or 23 32nds of an inch (roughly 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4", actually .438", .563", or .688"). In theory, wood sheathing is optional, but it is almost always used.

Zip System (by Huber), PolyWall. Zip System is sheathing, not foam insulation. It goes against the studs and foam goes outside it. ZIP System R-Sheathing is a 7/16" OSB with a water-resistant face on the exterior and a rigid foam bonded to the interior face. It comes in 15/16" (R-3), 1-7/16" (R-6), 1-15/16" (R-9) and 2-7/16" (R-12) total thickness. PolyWall is flashings for openings, below grade waterproofing and related products. ZIP System comes in green (7/16") or brown (1/2" or 5/8").

Risinger suggests plywood on the first floor, OSB above, perhaps.

House wrap goes outside the sheathing. Tyvek, or similar. Could be 15# building paper, but that's old school. House wrap is an air barrier, but allows moisture vapor to escape. Dupont Weathermate Plus is an alternative that is translucent so you can see the nails.

This video says have the lumber yard rip 1-1/2" wide strips of 3/8" CDX plywood for use as strapping outside ZIP system sheathing. No house wrap, no extra foam. But it gives 3/8" of rain screen behind Hardiplank. Strapping goes wherever a stud is, so the siding is solidly attached.

Any rigid foam goes outside the house wrap. For example, Enerfoil polyiso offers R-6.2 per inch and comes in ½", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1½", 2", 2½", 3", 3½", and 4" thicknesses.  Johns-Manville sells foil-faced rigid polyisocyanurate foam boards. The foil goes on the exterior side. Owens-Corning sells 2"-thick XPS (extruded polystyrene) that is R-5 per inch.

Horizontal siding, such as Hardiplank, can be installed directly on foam board up to 1" thick, but for thicker foam, vertical strapping--like lath, only vertical--is used and the strapping provides a 1/4" to ½" air space between the foam and the siding.

Hardiplank (by James Hardie Building Products) always requires a 1-1/4" minimum overlap, but is available in 4", 5", 6", 6-1/4", 6-3/4", 7", 8", 8-1/4", and 10-3/4" exposures. A 1/4"-thick lath board is run along the bottom edge to angle the first course correctly.

For a raised floor, I think the sheathing extends past the sill plate and covers the rim joist and mud sill as well. Flashing is nailed to the sheathing and runs under the exterior wall layers, then turns down again, creating a flashing "cap" on the exposed concrete footing.

A real brick veneer is the same up to the foam board. The brick is held off from the foam for a 1" air space.

Faux brick or stone is adhesive-applied (that is, "thin set"). You need a "dimple mat" (see Dorken). Matt Risinger uses a dimple mat with synthetic lath (metal lath rusts) pre-attached. His stucco guy then does a scratch coat and a brown coat. Instead of a finish coat for a stucco wall, he uses thin set mortar to adhere thin brick or stone.

In addition to horizontal siding, we could have vertical wood siding (tongue and v-groove, for example), panels, or even cement plaster ("stucco"). 

Typical Walls

2x4 studs with batts, OSB/ZIP system sheathing, housewrap, 1" polyiso, Hardiplank. R-19.2, 4-7/8" total thickness.

2x6 studs, as above: R-25.2, 6-7/8" total thickness.

Interior walls: 2x4 studs with 1/2" drywall each side. 4-1/2" total thickness.

2x4 studs with batts, ZIP system sheathing, housewrap, dimple mat, 3-coat cement plaster. R-19.2, 6-3/16" total thickness. 3mm mat = 0.118"

Floor Construction

AdvanTech - Matt Risinger uses 1-1/8" tongue-and-groove subfloors on I-joists (LVL plywood top and bottom on an OSB web). AdvanTech, from Huber, comes in 19/32" (5/8"), 23/32" (3/4"), 7/8", 1", and 1-1/8"

Roof Construction

Roof framing is often 2x4 trusses, even for low-slope "flat" roofs. A 12" high truss allows utilities and insulation.

Ice and water shield goes on first--it's a 36" peel and stick product that goes at the low edge. Synthetic underlayment goes under the whole roof--that is, over the ice and water shield and the rest of the sheathing. IKO Stormtite. Next, install the drip flashing on top of the synthetic underlayment.

Roof Top Insulation by Matt Risinger for his "Monopoly House." He eliminates all overhangs and runs ZIP System sheathing up to the roof. The walls are green ZIP sheathing and the roof is brown 5/8" ZIP sheathing. All edges are taped with black ZIP tape. The air and moisture barrier is continuous from the foundation up to the ridge. 

Above the ZIP roof sheathing, he has 2" polyiso (Atlas Roofing) continuous. Above that, he has 2" flat LVL framing @24" to support the overhang, 2" more inches of polyiso between the outriggers. Unvented attic--no eave, gable or ridge vents. This 2" polyiso is specifically for roofs because it has a fiberglass facer for waterproof-ness. So it's framing, then ZIP sheathing, then 2" polyiso, then 2" outriggers with 2" polyiso, then more ZIP sheathing. Note that the first 2" polyiso layer hangs over the wall sheathing to protect the outer layers of the wall section. 4" of polyiso is roughly R-22.8.

The rafter tails on the main house are cantilevered--they run about 2x the overhang up the roof and just stop. (See video @3:24.)

West Wing Design Development

Sketching continues, but the brutal fact is that it's a garage facing the street, so it's going to look like it, and an apartment above is going to look like a million others. It occurred to me to ask the Internet what it thinks.

There are three use cases: 1) One house for an extended family; 2) a main house and a two-level rental; or 3) a house, a room rental, and an upstairs apartment rental.

As Marly points out, internal stairs work for UC1, but outside stairs would be a plus for UC2 or UC3.

I'm thinking that in addition to serving as an entry room, the breezeway functions as a kitchen for the backyard in UC1--a party central kitchen to keep guests from clogging the real kitchen.

Use Case 1

Especially with internal stairs, we get a 2000+ SF Broadview home with ramp access for aging-in-place and two remote bedrooms. Older parents in one side, younger couple above the garage, and an ensuite for a teenager.

Use Case 2

In this case, we separate the 2BR, 2BA main house from the West Wing, which becomes a 2BR, 2BA rental. Residents of the main house use the garage or they use the ramp entrance, so the breezeway is circulation with a locking door at the hall.

Use Case 3

Two tenants in the West Wing means the downstairs ensuite uses the breezeway kitchen and the upstairs laundry. Maybe it suggests a balcony for the upstairs apartment since the downstairs tenant "owns" the back deck.

I had planned to save Casey's room but build a new roof over the ceiling platform. The hip roof is sagging at the corners, the breezeway roof intersection is perverted, and with a higher plate and a gable instead of a hip, we could actually use the attic for storage.

But now I'm thinking that building the second floor apartment in the back instead of the front has appeal: The view of the canyon is much better than the view of the street; putting the attic in front lowers the mass above the garage doors; and "hiding" the second floor means it can be more utilitarian without affecting the curb appeal.

This, or something like it, was my first thought. How boring am I?

Isn't this awful? Let's try to avoid this.

Clip the garage doors all you want, it's still a carriage house

3-Family Residence

Here's the idea: There are three tenants (I'm likely one of them). House, Room, Apt.

House

2 bedrooms, 1-3/4 bath, full kitchen, full laundry - ~1500SF

Keys: The front door at the living room, the door from the breezeway to the house (where the laundry is now). Combination to the breezeway door (because there is a zero-step ramp to that door). Garage door opener for east side.

Access to the backyard and the small deck through BR1 and the Breezeway. Maybe a new slider in BR2 (over the basement stairs). 

Can access the stairs and the Room/Apt laundry, but doors to Room and Apt are locked. Hall opens onto the garage.

Room

1 bedroom, 3/4 bath. Hot plate and refrigerator. - ~200SF

Access to the large deck and the backyard. Tankless water heater. Key to the door at the deck. Combination to the breezeway door.

Access to laundry facilities up the stairs.

Parks on the street or on the verge of the driveway.

Apt

1 bedroom, full bath, minimal kitchen - ~500SF

Combination to the breezeway door. Key to the upstairs Apt. Garage door opener for west side.

Apt has a living/dining room with an alcove kitchen, a small bedroom with en suite bath. Outside in the hall, a stacked washer/dryer to share with the person in the Room.

Combined Tenant

A single tenant--a couple with a teenager, or a couple with an aging parent--could rent both the Room and Apt. 

2 bedroom, 1-3/4 bath, minimal kitchen, laundry - ~700SF

Large House

The other alternative is a single occupant:

4 bedrooms, 3-1/2 bath, two kitchens, two-car garage, step-free entrance = ~2200SF

Common Space

The stairs, the breezeway, and a hall outside the garage become common, wasted circulation space. It's about 240SF all told. Not great, but very flexible.

Chief Architect as a Design Tool

 

Here's the massing of a garage at 15-degrees and an apartment above it. I have modeled stairs up each side of the 20x20 cube, because I'm not sure what to do.

Stairs up the western side isolate the apartment from the existing house, including BR3. They are the most private solution for an ADU above the garage. I drew them outside the 20x20 box, but they could be interior stairs, too.

It would seem that a small ADU above the garage would not need more than one fire exit. Presumably, an egress window will serve as the alternative. Stairs up the back (along the south side) make the most sense, except that they move the full-height ceiling to the edge. We might have some kind of A-frame if the door was in the middle of a wall.

Stairs up the east side interfere with the electric service entrance. The service head and meter can be moved, presumably, but the panel inside cannot, making an awkward jog in the stair necessary. I would prefer not to move either the service head or the meter, and we can get away with that, I think, if the east side is wall or roof and dormer.

In theory, the south side stairs could run the other way--start in the Breezeway and end at the west--but that cuts off access to BR3 or the garage, one or the other. If we bump out the Breezeway to the north to get garage access, we cut off the electric meter.

We wouldn't have to tilt the garage, and we could slide 6.5' west, if we removed the 44" Douglas fir blocking the existing driveway.

We shouldn't rule out completely re-wiring the house. It's just not that many runs--6 for the kitchen, 2 for the laundry, 2x3 baths, 2 lighting/outlets, maybe 18, 20 runs into the attic and the basement. If we need a new panel for the ADU and a new service head due to geometry, maybe we're most of the way there.

All new siding?

I had not thought that I would consider spending money on the siding. The walls are in great shape, thanks to the 26" overhang all around. But I picked up a Hardie brochure at the home show and I started thinking about it.

1. I've never liked the chair rail at the house's waist, nor the vertical over horizontal pattern.
2. There are some damaged areas that need repair. Any new windows will need patches, and they really hacked it up for BR3 and the skinny window out of BA1.
3. I was planning to re-paint the house; fresh paint always looks good, and I could choose a better LRV on the north-facing curb side.
4. The walls contain a 1/2" sandwich of kraft paper with rock wool inside. It's good for R-2.5.

After seeing how my neighbor added huge value to his ugly house with a new roof, I'm thinking...maybe my house needs new siding instead of new paint. It would be nice to tell a prospective buyer--see that brand new siding? We put insulation under it all around, and spruced up the 75-year-old structure at the same time.

Hardie makes a cement fiber siding with integral color. I'm thinking a light color horizontal lap, consistently, around new construction and old.

Lowe's sells the planks (7.25" x 12') for $14.44, or just about $2/SF. So, maybe $6 installed and trimmed out? Seems like something I could do with the help of a laborer. 4x8 smooth sheets are $55.44, or $1.74/SF. 

RemodelingExpense.com says it's $6.71 for Good, $8.78 for Better, installed.

Maybe forget the insulation and install the siding right over the existing siding? That's a lot of material to haul away, otherwise.

Looks like the vicinity of 2000 SF of exterior walls, so $13,420 to $17,560 to "re-siding" the house.

Maybe vertical looks better. Maybe the 4x8 sheets work--a Meier grid look (like the Getty) and/or shoji screens. I don't know where we'll end up, but it's something to think about.

I don't know if I can trust Remodeling Expense's numbers, but they say exterior painting a 2000 SF (siding) house would be $4950-$6200. 

I'll just leave this here...

Tree Identification

I would like to get my trees classified better than I have. The survey says tree #1, just north of the NE corner, is a fir, but I think it's a cedar, for example.

Tree #1

#1 is the city's tree, in the ROW. It's a 24" Fir on the survey.

Website What Tree Is That? says that individual needles like this that taper at the connection to the twig, so as to appear stalked, make this a Douglasfir (their spelling), or Pseudotsuga Menziesii. If so, the survey is right.

Rough bark

Tree #2

#2 is the huge tree in the NW corner of my property. It's trunk veers east as it meets the ground, and it splits in two trunks 70' in the air. It's called a 44" Fir on the survey.

I've always thought this was a Douglas Fir

Looking at the photos, this not only looks like #1, but the cones look like the photo online. The cones are very distinctive--they are not like pine cones. Maybe 1-1/2" long, narrow and almost bullet-shaped with rows of scales.

Tree #3

#3 is a large, messy 36" Cedar, according to the survey. It's why I got a canopy. Its trunk splits into 5 major trunks just 8' off the ground.

It would appear to be an Incense-cedar (Calocedrus decurrens). Libocedrus decurrens Torr is its former name. This is where the yellow pollen dust comes from, but the cones in the driveway are from the Douglas fir. 

Tree #4

#4 is 26" Fir on the west property line, just south of BR3. Its bark is a little mossy; it's hard to describe.

Tree #4 in the foreground; Tree #5 lurking for comparison

Tree #5

#5 is a 36" Fir near #4 on the west property line--actually straddling the line. Its bark looks different from #4, however.

Killing and removing the lower ivy took a toll on the upper ivy.

Tree #6

#6 is a 10" Fir. Like #4 and #5, its branches start so far up, it's hard to even see the needles. The trunks of all three are perfectly vertical--maybe they are Lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta). The What Tree Is That? tree finder suggests Limber Pine (Pinus flexilis), but they could all be Doug firs for all I know.

Tree #7

#7 is a 26" Cedar just about centered on the breezeway, about 10' away from the southern property line.

Tree #8

#8 is massive 38" Fir aligned with the basement stairs.

Tree #9 is an 18" Fir just east of #8.

A Day of Design Exploration

The idea of spending real money, giving a set of plans to a contractor and watching it be built 10x faster than I could do it, is very appealing. My previous sketch of a garage and driveway made me want to develop the front yard further, which led to trying to solve the floor plan. I drew three plans today, and I know how I would change each one for version 2.

Site Plan

The site plan is hard to read, but I considered ramps and steps and drainage in the context of the lay of the land. The basic ideas are:

• Move the driveway east, away from the base of the Douglas Fir
• Widen the driveway, so a car can get to the garage even if one is parked in the driveway
• Run the wide driveway to the street so that we might get 6 cars parked for a party
• The drive can't move very far east, but don't need to deal with the city's drainage pipe and we can preserve the brick tombstone with the post light
• I need to replace the front walk--the finish is shot, it's cracking, and...yeah. But this means I can plan for a step-free access to the breezeway. Pull in the driveway, wheel yourself to the street and over to the entry walk and you're in.
• I'm calling for pavers over the Doug Fir and Cedar roots--I was thinking pavers for everything, but they're pricey and the driveway is already 750 SF. 
• I think I need a small retaining wall at the east side of the driveway--I'm thinking of interlocking blocks
• Finally, I think I have the trash bins where I want them--behind a modesty fence. Double gates--the north side with a cane bolt, the south gate by the garage for everyday. Wednesday night, open the south gate, wheel the bin to the street--paved the whole way--then wheel them back in.

Just fooling around. Green spot in driveway is a mistake; ignore.

What would I change? Well, the this-way-and-that aspect of the entry walk is a little annoying, and I'm not sure what I'm doing with the dining room window and therefore the porch. Also, do I need paving to the east side yard? I can imagine a Rubbermaid garden shed over there, as well. Stepping stones (or nothing) don't work so great for pulling out a lawn mower (but I'm not planning on having  lawn). I'm thinking of a gate to block people from walking up to the breezeway, but that's based on the floor plan.

I didn't call it out, but a hose bibb and area light at the north garage corner would be awesome for keeping the garbage bins clean. What a luxury.

Street number goes on brick tombstone--Chief Architect can't do that :-)

First Floor Plan

Here's the deal: A "real" garage is 400-500 SF, which is $50,000, all things considered. When I go to list the house, it will still be about 1,600 SF, but it will have a garage. If I built a little higher and put in a floor, for a similar amount of money, I could have a 2,100 SF house with more beds and baths.

First Floor

I could not come up with a way to get from the breezeway down to Casey's room and the garage and stairs up to the floor above the garage. I could do 2 of them, not 3. I could have the stairs to the 2nd floor enter from the west and enter Casey's room from the breezeway (essentially as it is now), but I think there's value in having two rentals, or one big rental.

Another consideration in all this is the electrical system for the house. The service entrance is on the breezeway roof, directly above the panel. The panel, you will recall, was moved from the south wall to the north, leaving a rat's nest of splices behind a louvered door. All the wiring in the house goes to the old location, then it all runs over the breezeway ceiling to the new panel for power. Moving any of those three--service, panel, old splices--is tantamount to rewiring the entire house. The meter isn't a big deal because it's a "smart" meter now, so the meter reader doesn't need to see it from the street.

Two 8' overhead doors is better than one 16' door. I would probably park on the east side and use the west as a workshop.

I imagine the breezeway as just that--a light, airy space with French doors to a deck. A quiet place to sit in a white wicker chair and flip through a magazine. Oh, all right, I admit it--I have no idea. The circulation in the main house sucks. I could see them bulldoze my deck, but I don't want to have to argue with Seattle to get a permit to build closer to Carkeek if I can avoid it.

What would I change? I'm wasting 25 SF on a vestibule that could be better thought out. For one thing, the grade is about 3' down on that side, so I need stairs and a landing, or something like that. Casey's bed has no night stand, so maybe have the door to the side yard lead you straight up the stairs or, you turn right and enter Casey's room--that is, give Casey's room part of the vestibule.

I have no clue about the windows in the kitchen. I could bump out for a refrigerator niche, but I haven't thought it through. Also, I thought a coat closet just outside the garage might be nice, but it should probably be the triangular closet and let Casey have more space under the stairs.

Lastly, I'm thinking plumbing for a laundry in the back of the garage, to be shared by two tenants. The problem is, it wouldn't work with the main sewer line. It would have to piggyback on the existing sewage pump that Casey's bathroom is on. I've seen washers drain--I don't think it could keep up.

Second Floor Plan

If you thought the first floor was quick and dirty, get ready. 

One goal of messing with the garage roof is to resolve the ridiculous triangle pieces where the garage fascia tucks under the house fascia and the breezeway hits the garage hip roof awkwardly. The way I would like to do it is to build a 3' cripple wall up around Casey's bedroom and bath, then build a new hip roof 3' higher than before. The fascia and gutters then run around the house and Casey's room at the same height. We can fix up the breezeway roof, but we want to leave it where it is, because all the electrical runs through it.

What's going on in the apartment? Well, a full bath for one thing. I'm thinking dormers in front, so that we don't have a two-story blank wall facing the street. That is, I'd like it to look more like the Chief rendering above, which I did before I thought of a two-story garage.

So the roof is kind of a salt box, with an 8:12 in front at the dormers and maybe a 4:12 on the back, over the stairs. I'm thinking the closet would be better between the living room and bedroom, moving the door closer to the kitchen. Bed on the west wall, couch on the east wall, facing the TV on the demising wall. 

Can you tell I haven't done a section to prove that any of this roof fantasy actually works? I'm thinking we could get some high south light on the stairs and borrow it in the kitchen/dining side, but it depends on the section.

Oh, and a place for a stacked washer/dryer would be lovely. It's okay on the second floor, because we can drop the sewer down to the breezeway. Under the breezeway floor, I think there's room to slope to the main house sewer in the basement. If not, we can catch the sewer closer to the street. The garage level doesn't have these options. Just looking at it, maybe it goes on the south side of the stairs at the top landing, and the door to the attic storage moves down a little.

Lastly, the odd looking hip roof is because we have appendages on the side, but we added the 3' cripple wall for other reasons, so we have lots of room to morph the hip into a shed. Thinking about it, though, there's no reason for a 5' overhang--we could just put the shed over the appendage. God knows what the gutter does--actually, I guess it's just treated like a short gable so it doesn't have a gutter.

Construction Phases

I'm thinking that we could build this as Phase 1--bulldoze the workshop, the driveway, the front yard and build this two-story thing. Casey moves into the guest bedroom, most likely.

Phase 2 is the kitchen remodel and dressing up the dining room and living room--moldings, paint.

Phase 3 is bathroom and hall remodel, refinish the floors, paint the original house.

So that was my Friday. 

Front Yard Inspiration

I've been thinking--ruminating, really--about how to improve the curb appeal of this house, presuming that I'm willing to spend tens or hundred of thousands. A bunch of concepts compete:

• Paint the house--all light (it's north-facing) with no blue two-tone
• Re-roof (it's nearly time)--the existing blackish composition works, but the gutters need to be re-done. Also, the uphill neighbors are re-roofing in metal.
• A proper garage to replace the driveway canopy - de-emphasize the doors, if possible
• Repair the crumbling driveway and cracking, stained front walk
• Eliminate front door confusion
• Get the hardscape sorted so that we can actually landscape--front patio would be nice
• Hide the trash cans (least of my worries, but it's on the list)

The Douglas Fir in the NW corner of the property has always been an issue. I would hate to remove it, but it blocks the driveway from going straight in. Also, I want to minimize driveway impact to the roots. At the Home Show yesterday, I realized that pavers, being permeable, are better than asphalt or concrete over tree roots. Also, I saw that the drip line on the survey is exaggerated. 

I started sketching, hoping that I could move the driveway complete off the roots, but that's not going to happen. I know we can bury the drainage ditch, so the driveway-to-street intersection can be anywhere. In the end, though, I realized that it doesn't work.

Thumbnail design

For a fresh approach, I thought I'd doodle at a small scale, like 1"=40'. I kind of like the way this looks.

I'm visualizing the trash yard as a double gate, with the gate closest to the garage being used typically and the garbage bins lined up behind the other gate. For access, we can open both gates and wheel the bins out of the way, but each week, we just use the usual gate to wheel out each bin.

In the new garage, I'd like a storage loft, but maybe with a permanent or pull-down stair. The street view is important so that it doesn't hulk as this sketch predicts.

One wishlist item that this doesn't solve: It would be nice to have step-free access to the main house. In theory, this could be arranged at the breezeway, but it's awkward given the current grade.

It's funny doing little thumbnails of site plans when you haven't solved the floor plan--not even a little bit--but maybe it helps break the design logjam.

As for the crummy sketch--if only I had a multi-thousand dollar design tool that could make 3D renderings for me.