Details piling up--time for a list

 Another to-do list, because I'm paralyzed about what to do next. There are distinct projects:

• Cut and install the handrails
• Cut the pieces to fit precisely
• Super glue the end pieces (where occurs)
• Level the pieces so the miters work; confirm that the miters are tight
• Paint the underside of the handrail pieces
• Use construction adhesive to place two handrails on the sub-rails
• Super glue the miter while the adhesive is still setting up
• Place the next handrail with adhesive; super glue the miter
• When the adhesive has set, drill and screw the handrails in place
• Drill and insert the 144 cable rail swage lag screws (and the sleeves)
• Finish screwing down the deck and stair treads
• Figure out and install hooks on two trees way up high
• Finish designing electrical; make shopping list
• Install electrical boxes and conduit; trench along outside of house
• Run wire and install outlets and switches
• Cut, crimp, and tension 72 cables
• Use the tree hooks to hang the patio lights

Handrails

They're harder than I expected, because I want good, tight miters at the corners. On the upper deck, they are simple 45-degree corners, and I'm still having trouble getting them to align. In addition to the miter, the plane of the handrails must match--each handrail rests on two 4x4s, so if they aren't level, or the 2x4 subrail protrudes, the rails won't meet precisely. I'm counting on the adhesive to act like caulk to minimize this problem.

Super glue. It's runny, so it drips out when I'm holding the miter ends--I have super glued my fingers every time I have done this. I will test carpenter's yellow glue on the deck boards to see if that's an alternative.

I'm a little worried that perfect miters will be even harder on the lower deck.

Swage Lag Screws

I realized I don't need to screw in 72 lag screws. I have 72 cables, so I need to screw in 144 of them. Luckily, I bought 80 pairs, so I have 160 screws.

I rewatched these videos: This one from Muzata (the makers of the swage lag screws), and this one from a guy using Muzata screws. It seems that the hydraulic crimper I have is a little easier to use than what the guy in the second video had. 

I bought a genuine Crescent-brand 6" wrench (as used in both videos) and tried it--it makes it easier than the mini wrench or the vise grips. This won't be so bad.

I'm still worried about drilling at a 30-degree angle on the lower stairs.

Hooks on Trees

To my surprise, the internet says screw in your eye bolt. "I'd use a treated deck screw so it doesn't rust or be corroded by the wood tannins. Just don't wrap anything around the tree, like a belt. That will definitely kill the tree as it grows." Davey, the tree people, have an article: "The #1 thing you don’t want is for a nail or screw in your tree to rust over time. That’s why it’s best to choose stainless steel, aluminum or any other rust-proof nails and screws for your project."

I need to see how high my ladder will get me up the tree. I'm not sure what my plan b is if it's not high enough. Nail ladder rungs to the tree! That's the ticket. 

I'll pick up a couple of stainless steel eye bolts: https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-N100-189-V2151-Screw-Eyes-in-Stainless-Steel/1001842788. Looks like $2.50 for two. Two carabiners with 5 or 6 feet of rope tied to the carabiner and a big-ish loop on the other end. Then I'll thread the patio lights through the ropes on the ground, lift and snap the carabiners into the tree eye bolts.