Outdoor Electrical

 I've been thinking about this for several days; here's what I've come up with.

Existing: 

1. Romex "extension cord" with a plug for the sewage ejector (#29, 20A)
2. Outlet, switch, and eave downlight in the corner of the breezeway notch. In theory, we can get access from the BR3 Hall (except the downlight)
3. Eave light fixture outside BA3 seems to be controlled by the dimmer switch at Casey's door. It seems to have power, but isn't lighting. Tried with known good bulb. Tried to isolate circuit (1, 3, 13, 15, 21, 26, 28, 29, 30A, 30B--tester behavior changes with #22 off).
4. Garden light on west property line, controlled by switch 4 in the BR3 Hall. (We don't know what switch 3 controls.) The garden light comes on, intermittently, suggesting a dangerous 120V situation. (Circuit #6--we'll leave it off for now.)
5. Outdoor wall switch outside BA3 with conduit running into the dirt.

Given this confusion, the initial plan had been to tap circuit #29 and install a number of outdoor outlets, including a new one for the sewage ejector, all protected by one GFCI. Then, using this power source (item 1), install an outlet at eave height controlled by a switch outside each door. We can still do this, but we want to resolve items 2 and 3 before painting the house.

The electrical code wants every outside door to have an inside switch controlling a light outside the door. We're not going to do that, but if we could make Casey's switch work, that would be cool. 

Distribution

I considered EMT metal conduit (I own a bender) and liquid-tight conduit, but since we have to use UF-B cable anyway, I think I'll just bury it, as we did with the post light in front. Dig a 12" trench along the house from the glass door to the southwest corner. The 3-way switches need to connect to each other, but not to each outlet, and laying cable in a trench means the wires don't need to connect in each outlet.

I think PVC (Cantex, Sched. 40) will work from the boxes to the trench. Lowes sells 10-ft, 3/4" for $3.00.

The boxes can be Sigma Electric metal with three 3/4" knockouts. We'll need a 3/4 bushing connector (Lowes, $0.43) for each.

About 40' horizontal, with about 36' verticals. 250' of UF-B 14/3 should do it. We only need /3 for the switches, but it might be easier to have just one kind.

GFCI

We'll put a box where the Romex pops out now and fill the box with a Legrand 20A non-outlet GFCI (Lowes $21.24). All the outlets and the light outlet will be protected.

Switches

Basic 3-Way toggle switch (Lowes $1.69) with a TayMac weatherproof cover (Lowes $4.98).

Outlets

In-use cover for the sewage ejector and light outlets (Lowes $8.98), but simple Sigma Electric metal cover (Lowes $3.67) for the others. I'm thinking we need outlets:

• Above the upper deck
• Below the upper deck (for under-railing low voltage lighting)
• Sewage ejector
• Above the lower deck (east end)
• Below the lower deck (west end) for low voltage transformer
• Switched lighting outlet

I'm thinking we can get by with simple Eaton 15A receptacles (Lowes $0.74).