Design Development

We have a schematic design at this point, with a few alternatives (metal vs asphalt roof, forced air vs hydronic heat). I'm still uncertain about the Trees Room roof (slope, structure, and insulation), the Trees Room window wall, and the exact entry arrangement (the most easily solved). But, for the most part, we're done with that phase. We might want to memorialize it in a one- or two-sheet drawing package.

Between Schematic Design and Construction Documents (CD) is Design Development (DD), which is where we nail down some of the specifications--doors and windows, siding, lighting. We need to design the site work. We also need to scope the phase I work (that is, what we tell people we're doing, vs. the eventual design). For example, the basement is not conditioned space; finishing it is not in Phase I. So how do we explain the hole in the floor to the city? We'll have to insulate the spiral stair shaft, weatherstrip the bookcase door--or, leave the whole thing (the hole thing) off the plans.

Open Issues

1. Middle Roof slope. I keep showing flat, modern. That is a bit out of character for the neighborhood and for the east and west sections of the house. So, a high hip or gable roof? Perhaps a metal gable with a N-S ridge beam. Structurally, we need at least one cross (E-W) beam, since the window wall is no help with lateral loads. To roof garden or not to roof garden? And, if we go flat, are we courting ponds, or do we mean 1/4"/FT?
2. Trees Room Window Wall. Still a major open issue. Do we need to control the light with exterior louvers? Now that the floor's at 263 again, how do we get down from the door? Do we need a door? Should we have a door in BR 2 (we have to replace the window anyway).
3. Forced air vs. hydronic heat. Buyers seem aware that hydronic is more valuable. I like that it heats from the bottom up and doesn't involve pushing air through dusty ducts. It is 2-3x the cost of forced air, however. I like the under-floor system, but radiators might be less expensive. If we stick with forced air, we still have to heat BR 3 and the Trees Room and insulate the under floor ducts. Advantage: hydronic.
4. The Entry hasn't been designed, but we're pretty close. I like a closet at the existing electrical panel, and it would be fun to have a piece of casework--a boot bench and coat hooks--that is a secret door. We must have a shelf inside and outside the front door--for packages, the mail, things to remember to take. I'm leaning toward a full lite door with obscure glass, rather than something with more wood (but if the vocabulary includes horizontal golden rectangles, we could have separate panes in the door to match). Then we need a clear view of who's outside--we'll have a DoorBot or eq., so perhaps the dining room window is sufficient.
5. Kitchen windows - with a big window at the sink, maybe we don't need the side windows. Maybe they should be tall and narrow fixed glass, for extra light only. The original thought had been awning windows on the sides, square fixed glass at the sink. Unresolved.
6. Exterior siding. We'll patch the existing on E, S, W, but new walls at the garage, the kitchen, the dining room, and the entry and Trees Room need some kind of siding. Cement board? Rain screen?
7. Skylights. Big one for BA 2. Any others? Doghouse over BR 2?
8. Dining Room windows - the west-facing window can't be as tall as the N-facing. Maybe we should have corner windows instead--make the wood accent a glass accent.
9. Bedroom windows - New windows in the 4 bedrooms (and the high window in BR 4) should be consistent. I like high (as opposed to low) awning windows.
10. Metal vs. comp roof. It seems that metal is 2-3x the cost of composition shingles. Metal is easier to install on gable roofs than hip--each sheet is cut on an angle, and the hip ridge cap angles in two dimensions. Composition is easier to patch and repair. Metal may be more durable, but when has a comp shingle roof been damaged? A dented metal roof looks worse and is harder to fix. Metal roofs are slippery when wet. Dark shingles hide sheathing imperfections; metal reveals them. Advantage: composition shingles.
11. Final kitchen design. Need to tweak the appliance layout--maybe recess the refrigerator. I like Ikea cabinets, but the current design doesn't take full advantage of the available kinds. Need to choose a door style and countertop. Upper cabinets depend on #5 Kitchen windows. Solve corners--what kind of spacers do we need to make the pull-out trays work? Backsplash? Choose hood.
12. Bathroom designs. Should be consistent across the three--vanity/lav design, lighting, finishes, shower configurations. Easy, but hasn't been done yet.
13. Closets. Instead of mirrored bi-sliding doors, people are removing frames and installing Ikea armoir units.
14. Floor finish. Refinish wood in BR 1, 2 depends on #3 Hydronic. Wood in BR 3, 4? Low-pile carpet in Trees Room for acoustics. What at entry? Steps to BR 3? What in bathrooms, ceramic tile?
15. Railing at steps to BR 3. I lean toward a black steel, but glass is nice and it's a small L--3' x 6', roughly. A mid-mod wood would be cool, too.
16. Retro thermal insulation. Blow in to existing walls (esp. BR 4 E)? Soffit vents in main attic? Need to know what we're proposing.