One foot in front of the other

I wrote a detailed To Do list, trying to put the steps in order.

Electrical. Bedroom #3 lights and outlets runs on 20A circuit (8). The workshop runs on 15A circuit (21). I want to continue using (21) for two reasons: 1) I don't want a power tool to trip the breaker and leave the bedroom dark; and 2) a 15A breaker means I can use 14ga wire, which is easier to deal with than 12ga.

Breezeway attic looking east (actually ESE)

My investigation shows that the main panel used to be on the south wall of the breezeway, but they installed a new 100A panel on the north wall (under the service entrance) and apparently spliced most of the circuits in the old house so that they extend 15' to the new panel.

If I were to pop the cover of the main panel, I could, in theory, take circuit 21 out the west side, emerging into the workshop. (It's only a theory because I don't mess with panels.) I would need to deal with the BR3 Hall ceiling light, but that's another problem. Actually, it's a related problem, but hang on.

That's how you typically wire a lights and outlets circuit--you run always hot to the outlets, and you wire the fixtures through switches. The problem is that the workshop is currently running off an outlet at the rafters above the BR3 door and this outlet is wired to the 2nd switch at the BR3 Hall door. The ceiling light in the BR3 Hall comes on because the switch sends power to the outlet, and the previous DIYers wired the ceiling light with a plug that they have plugged into the outlet instead of hard-wiring it.

From that outlet, they used a series of plug strips and extension cords to power 3 fluorescent lights and a fluorescent under-cabinet light. The plug strips provide power for tools. The way it was rigged, the fluorescent light over the door came on with the BR3 Hall ceiling light, but the other lights and plug strips were controlled by the jury-rigged switch at the hinge side of the workshop door.

My problem is that I can't find unswitched (21). I suspect there is a wire from breaker 21 across the breezeway to the old panel location, then from the old panel location to the 2nd switch and from there up to the switched outlet at the rafters. To connect to always-on power from breaker (21), perhaps I can tap in at the old panel location?

Attic above BR3--BA3 to the right. The j-box to the left is on (8), and the Romex stapled to the 2x4 runs out to the floodlights in front of the garage. The j-box to the right is dealing with the bathroom fixtures and I don't care. Note the water tube for the coffee maker, and what I think is a rat poison tray

There's an ancient black wire supplying power to the switched outlet above the BR3 Hall. In addition to the BR3 Hall ceiling light and the power strips for the workshop being plugged into this outlet, there is also Romex coming out and, nicely stapled to the rafters, feeding a properly-installed outlet on a west-facing rafter. The problem is, that rafter outlet is switched (21) and I need unswitched.

The connections in the j-boxes shown in the second photo look fine, but they both need covers to meet code. (Also, I worry that circuit (8) uses 14ga wire, which is a no-no since (8) is 20A. 20A Romex is yellow; this looks white.) The good news is that it looks as if the BA3 exhaust fan is actually hooked up (I had assumed it was like the others in the house).

Decision point:

A. Wire the lights and outlets in the workshop using the switched (21) power at the outlet box at the rafters. To energize anything in the workshop, you must turn on the switch. That means that battery chargers won't charge if the BR3 Hall ceiling light isn't on. This is the status quo.

B. Wire the lights and outlets in the workshop using the unswitched (8) power at the j-box feeding the floodlights. If I'm doing this, I should use 12ga wire. If I overload the circuit, BR3 goes dark. The lights might dim as I use the table saw. This leaves the BR3 Hall ceiling light as it is (and circuit 21 woefully underused).

C. Bring in an electrician and have him, by whatever magic, deliver me unswitched (21) somewhere. I can imagine the conversation in advance (depressing), but I'd like a professional opinion, too. Specifically, I know the crap in the workshop was bad/illegal/dangerous, but I wonder whether the rat's nest at the old panel location needs fixing?

I suppose I'll do C.

Update 4/18/19: Kemly Electric has 17 recommendations on NextDoor (no one else has more than 5). They want $130 to look at it (no work) and they charge $200+ per hour. Exact Electric is $150/hr with a 4-hour minimum. Pat Ivers of Current Electric didn't quote a rate, but said he's booked out 6 weeks. I have a plan for being my own magician, and I'm thinking I should become an electrician.

Torn insulation. Minor tears should be fixed with duct tape. I noticed one in the loft, but there are several in the attic, too. There is more major damage at the west wall; I think I'll have to cut it out and install new--then duct tape the kraft facing to preserve the vapor barrier to some extent.

Plumbing. Didn't think I had any plumbing, did you? Well, to retire the 1/4" water supply to the built-in coffee maker, I'll have to disconnect the tee from the cold water under the BA3 sink and attach the faucet hose in its place.

Coffee Maker. The coffee maker looks easy--pulling on the unit disconnects an electrical plug, exposing the 1/4" tubing connection. It's in a metal box in the wall--I don't know how tough that will be to get out.

Refrigerator. Not sure about this one. They put 2x4s around the unit on the workshop side and it looks like they used Liquid Nails on it. It doesn't seem loose.

Drywall. Remove the 3' x 4' sheet of drywall at the loft near the workshop door. In one piece, if possible, since I need a bunch of small pieces to close gaps.

Electric Eyes. There are gizmos mounted at the bottom of the two garage doors that look like sensors. They have light-gauge wire running up the jambs. Once I understand it, I can remove and discard it.

ShopVac. I don't like thinking about it, but I think I need to lift the ShopVac up to the attic, plug it in and get all the cobwebs and dust out of there. This is useful, because I'd like to use primer on the plywood floor up there. If that's not too bad--I have a serious air mask--then I'd do the same on the loft.

That's about 2/3 of the first page of the To Do list.