Status report

It doesn't look like much, but the three fluorescent lights are hanging from the rafters (one had been leaning against the wall, while another was hung under the loft) and they are powered from new outlets installed in the rafters. These outlets are GFCI protected and controlled by a motion/occupancy sensor switch at the door (on the strike side, not the hinge side as before). No spliced extension cords in the wall, no switched to BR3 Hall lights.

Note the two outlets in the rafters. I'll tuck the dangling wire against the fixture chain. Note the power outlets in the lower right.

There is remaining electrical to do, but this was a big phase 1. It's not quite done: The power outlets on the west wall in the photo above show an open ground on the tester. I repurposed some Romex that I found here and apparently there's a problem with the ground. Worst case, I'll have to run a new wire from the last rafter outlet and reconnect the double outlet.

Looking east toward the door. On the left, the GFCI entry point, by the door, the motion-sensor switch, and hidden behind the ladder, a utility outlet.

Phase Two electrical runs a switched line from the door switch box to (10) down lights underneath the loft. I considered many products and went with Parmida can-less down lights. They're like hockey pucks, not much deeper than the drywall. You run power to about where they'll be, install the drywall ceiling, then cut a 4" hole just where you want the light. Pull the power line through the hole and wire it to the j-box that comes with the downlight, rest the j-box inside the airspace and push the down light and its spring-loaded "ears" into place. They are LED and run cool. Ten of them will generate about 6,000 lumens with 90W.

If Lowe's or Home Depot know about "can-less" solutions, they are staying deliberately quiet. You want cans? They got em. You'll need a down light to go in your can, and of course the bulb is not included. It gets to $30/can pretty fast. The Parmida set is $7.66/light (it's a set of 12).

The switch by the door and the diagram for how it's wired.

This is my remaining electrical concern (once I fix the open ground): There are a lot of connections to fit in that switch box--it fits for now, because the switch (and the wires) to the down lights isn't there yet.

Work work work. Need to disconnect the water line for the coffee maker. Take the coffee maker out and the refrigerator, too. I still think I need to haul the Shop Vac up to the attic (and the loft) to make it cleaner. Then run the Shop Vac around at ground level. I have some 2x lumber to install at drywall joints and drilling for Phase Two electrical.

Drywalling the ceiling under the loft will be a challenge, but not as bad as could be because the loft is 5' x 20'. That means lifting 5' x 4' pieces over my head, not 8' x 4', a 37.5% weight reduction. John Jones suggested a job-made T-brace that will hold one end. I also benefit from the garage door tracks.